S/V Quest

Note: I had written this before the tragic events that befell the crew of the Quest.

An American yacht with four people onboard was recently captured by pirates in the Indian Ocean. Although we didn't know them personally, our paths overlapped in Galle.

Since the first sailboats trickled out of Sri Lanka, I had been watching the news and my email nervously to see if they would all make it.

Since the attack, there have been few developments, but the news certainly has received quite a bit of press (more so than the 38 commercial ships attacked by pirates in January). Many of these news stories have public comment areas, and I have found many of them critical of Quest's decision to transit pirate waters. Some have related it to the incidents involving the American backpackers that have been arrested in Iran and North Korea.

Although I will not comment on my feelings concerning Quest's decision, I do want to shed some light on the cruiser thought process.

Sailing around the world starts as a dream. After sufficient research and thought, this dream all of a sudden sounds 'crazy enough that it might work.' Then comes the planning, personal investment, and the naysayers. In our own experience, although the vast majority of people we met were unbelievably supportive, we still encountered a fair bit of criticism. We had fellow cruisers telling us to skip locations (Bahamas, Jamaica, Colombia, Galapagos, Australia, Indonesia, Singapore), friends at home advising us on how to outfit our yacht, and people on both sides telling us to slow down or speed up (respectively). Most advice is conflicting and eventually proven incorrect.

Cruisers get accustomed to this cacophony and become rather adept at ignoring it. By the time the Indian Ocean is reached, the advice to avoid pirates sounds all too similar.

The sailors we met in Sri Lanka were all aware of the piracy situation. It didn't help that most of the information on the topic (available at noonsite.com) was woefully inadequate and outdated, but even if it wasn't, a majority of yachts would still have chosen to sail on.

And so, at the end of February each year, a group of yachts will sail westward across the Indian Ocean. The size of the group will vary, but each sailor that sails on will always be irrationally certain of themselves.

If a sailor failed to possess this trait, they would have never left home in the first place.

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My Thoughts of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka was a very difficult place for us. We decided not to sail on, had to plan logistics for us and for the boat, and had a broken transmission to deal with. As if this on it's own wasn't enough, we were in Sri Lanka.

One of the things that makes traveling by sailboat so unique is that when you arrive in a country, you don't just get to play tourist. Oftentimes you have to interact with government officials and the local economy on a professional level. Whether it be buying fuel, obtaining port clearance, or hiring the services of a mechanic, you often get a very different glimpse of the country you are in. You get a sense of how easy/hard it is to do business, and how simple/complicated the bureaucracy is.


Past Examples:

Australia has some of the strictest immigration and importation requirements; however a very efficient system was set up in which the procedure was done very quickly.

Panama Canal transit is a complicated process; obtaining clearance through not only takes a fair bit of money, but several days worth of visiting many different offices throughout the city of Colon.

Dominican Republic clearance is rather benign, however officials there were very keen on extorting money and gifts or at least making life difficult for those who wouldn't bribe.

Indonesian clearance was complicated, expensive (in terms of costs and gifts), and most of the leg work has to be performed on your own (rides into town to visit many offices).


Sri Lanka is very unique (compared to the places we've been so far). Every official who boards your boat asks for gifts, but we found it easy to say no. I would venture to say that the country is relatively bribe-free. However, the bureaucracy there is incredibly stifling.

Examples:

- Mailing a package from the post office in Galle to the United States took about three hours (and none of this was spent waiting in line). Seemingly endless amounts of paperwork, signatures, and approval stamps were required just to be able to pay the required postage.

- We had to ship some transmission parts from the US to Sri Lanka (they were unavailable domestically). The parts cost about $70, not including shipping. It took four days for them to reach Colombo, the capital. DHL then informed me that the package was being held by customs for an unforeseeable amount of time. They told me the fastest way to get the parts was for me to travel to the airport in Colombo and pay the import duties myself. After a three hour train ride and two hour bus ride, I arrived at the cargo terminal of Bandaranaike International Airport. Approximately three hours later, with visits to the offices of DHL and many government officials, I was allowed to leave with the package (it was really just an envelope with two transmission pressure plates in it). The taxes and fees paid amounted to about $60 USD.

- While attempting to repair the transmission, we employed the services of a mechanic who worked for a ships-services company in Galle Harbor. This individual's main job is to maintain his company's two 30' motor launches. He came and spent some time on our boat helping with our transmission problems, but every time he walked from his end of the harbor to ours, we had to obtain a letter of approval with signatures from our port agent, the head of port security, and the harbormaster. (I heard the phrase "You have to make a letter" far too many times).


The people of Sri Lanka are generally friendly and helpful, and it is indeed a beautiful country (just check out Matt's posts about his travels!). However, the bureaucracy is unbearably stifling, forcing most people to work in the informal economy. Import regulations make sure that almost all goods are produced in Sri Lanka, but this also means that you can't purchase good, cheap things from other countries. (The 50cc Yamaha motorbike is ever-present throughout the developing world - except in Sri Lanka).

I can give the country a bit of credit - they are still recovering from a very long and painful civil war (the motivations for which are still unsettled). However, I believe an easing of business and trade restrictions would be a small step that would do a whole lot of good.

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Onwards

Anima III, Real Time II, ING, Miss Tippy, Margarita, Imagine, Skedaddle II, Journey, Talismane, Jacabel, Estrellita, BeBe, Miss Jody, Passage, Enchantress, Jackamy, Chalolina, Aspen, Lucy Alice, Saildance II, Fai Tira, Sur, Alexander, Mantra Asia.

These are the other sailboats that will be transiting the western Indian Ocean, Gulf of Aden, and Red Sea this season. We count many of them as very good friends. Some we met here in Sri Lanka, others in Malaysia, Indonesia, Vanuatu, Tonga, and even Panama. Everyone has been travelling on a similar route, and it is always a pleasure to pull into a port, find old friends, and share stories.

This community of cruisers has helped each other through mechanical, routing, and culinary problems throughout their journey. A circumnavigation tends to self-select sailors that are strong-willed, brave, intelligent, and friendly. Through the course of unexpected challenges, these positive traits are refined. Here in the Indian Ocean, after sailing through most of the world, these sailors are at their very best.

As we on the WTP have decided to discontinue our journey by sailboat, there's one thing that weighs heaviest on my mind. It's not that we won't be pulling into Hampton, Virginia in June and proving to myself that the world is indeed round. It's not that we won't see Egypt, the Suez Canal, or the Mediterranean by sailboat. It's not even knowing that my days aboard the WTP are numbered.

What I'm saddest about, is leaving this strong community of sailors. As they untie their lines next week and sail for their next port, I will no longer be counted among them. I'm also worried for their safety.

We've decided not to face the chance of a hijacking in the Indian Ocean. If we left here today, we would enter pirate waters in four days, and then face a serious threat to our lives and livelihoods daily until we passed Saleef in the Red Sea, nearly a month from now. That's something we don't want to deal with.

Every other sailboat in the harbor is aware of the piracy threat. Most are nervous, some are resigned, and a few are naive. We can't make decisions for them. However, as they sail forward I sincerely wish the very best for them. One month from now, I would be happiest if every sailboat made it through without any threat, thus proving our fears unfounded. I don't want to feel justified in our decision to stop by hearing that another sailboat had been captured.

On Sunday, due to visa restrictions, Matt and Amanda are flying to Istanbul. I will remain behind in Galle until the transmission is fixed and the boat is ready for its return to Malaysia. Our last holdover is an envelope of transmission parts currently being held by Sri Lanka Customs in Colombo. When everything here is finished, I will shoulder my pack, hop on a plane, and rejoin the crew in Europe.

I might be saying farewell, but it's not the end. Onwards.

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And The Oscar Goes To ...

Trans Atlantic Diesels has come through for us once again. After many emails back and forth, with photos attached, Marcus was able to determine which transmission we had, which drive plate we needed, and what other tools were required for the job.

Specifically, we need to replace our drive plate, which bolts to the flywheel and connects to the transmission. We also need to replace the shaft on our transmission. The drive plate replacement is relatively simple, however the transmission shaft is a bit more complex. Marcus has always provided excellent instruction by email, but for the transmission shaft job, he went above and beyond the call of duty.

We received a DVD movie of Marcus and T.A.D. technician Eric disassembling and reassembling a copy of our transmission. They go through each step, describe which tools to use (some tools, such as a 12-point socket and snap-ring pliers, were included in our package), and what to be careful not to do. Eric masterfully completes the disassembly and reassembly in an impressive 13 minutes, while also narrating and instructing!

This video gives me a new appreciation for any engineer that has designed a transmission, as well as for the high skill set of everyone at T.A.D. We haven't attempted to replace our shaft yet, but I know there's no way we would have been able to without this video.

For this year's Academy Awards, look for the following nominations:

Best Actor in a Leading Role: Eric

Best Actor in a Supporting Role: Marcus

Best Cinematography: Marcus

Best Costume Design: Eric

Best Director: Marcus

Best Documentary Short Subject: Trans Atlantic Diesels: Replacing Your Transmission Shaft

Best Writing - Original Screenplay: Eric & Marcus

Thanks T.A.D.!

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An Expanding Skill Set

I've always considered myself a fairly technical person. I know how to program a VCR, change the spool on a weedwhacker, and tune up my bicycle. However, I never considered myself a mechanic of any sort. I went to Jiffy Lube for my oil changes and Walmart to swap batteries.

Living on a boat requires a certain broader know-how. Our starter seized up in Vanuatu and fixing it required a day spent with various mechanics and machinists. Luckily, we had easy access to knowledgeable resources (and a vehicle). Special thanks to our friends at Trans Atlantic Diesels in Virginia who guided us through the repair process via e-mail.

While coming into Galle, we ran into another problem. As we approached the narrow entrance to the harbor, with 20 feet separating us from a wall of jagged rocks, our transmission failed. We used momentum, wind, and quick thinking to successfully moor off the proper dock (as well as giving the Navy officers onboard a frightening shock).

This repair is proving to be more complicated than our starter repair. We've determined that the splines on the female portion of our drive/damper plate have been stripped. Fixing it is requiring a much broader skill set, including:

1) Mechanic (of course guided once more by our good friends at Trans Atlantic Diesels).

2) Contortionist - the space around our engine is very small, and we wouldn't be able to work on the engine if we hadn't lost weight on our last crossing.

3) Translator - many people here speak English. Some do not, specifically a mechanic we've employed to help us. So far I think we've been able to communicate the fact that we live on a sailboat.

4) Negotiator - there are many locals seeking to provide services to the few yachts in the harbor. The unfortunate assumption made by all is that since we're Americans, we're millionaires. I wish it were the case, but it is in fact not true. We spend a lot of time telling people 'No, we don't want to go buy gems at the jewelry store.'

5) Writer - every step of the repair process has resulted in a flurry of e-mails to Trans Atlantic Diesels. We appreciate all their help, even going out of their way to help us on Christmas Day.

If any of you at home have wise bits of wisdom on how to work around our current snafu, send them along to crew@eyeotw.org. All will be appreciated!

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Demand Driven Environmental Preservation

Traveling through the Straits of Malacca from Malaysia to Thailand, there is a gradual, yet distinctive change in water clarity and the number of tourists. From Pangkor to Phuket, the water has changed from muddy brown with shades of grey, to shimmering emerald blue with thirty foot visibility. Similarly, we've witnessed the change from struggling tourist resorts to bustling and booming islands full of bungalows and European travelers. It would be easy to assume that water clarity and tourism were positively correlated, if not causal.

In many recreational demand studies in the US, this relationship has been shown to hold. Researchers use a tool called a 'secchi disk.' This is a simple flat disk on a string with alternating black and white quadrants - water clarity is quantified by the depth at which the disk is no longer visible. Low and behold, with all else held constant, clearer lakes get more visitors.

In a part of the world where incomes are low and tourists are a valuable source of revenue, it is empowering to see the positive impact that tourism can have on the environment. In touristy areas there is markedly less trash floating in the water, new construction projects utilize stormwater retention ponds, and open greenspace is set aside for recreation or animal habitat. There are fewer fishing boats as well, possibly due to higher incomes available in the tourist industry, thus lowering fishing effort and increasing the stock of fish (re-read our 'Econ Week' post on the Gordon Fisheries model).

Tourism's positive impact on the environment has been visible in many places on our journey:

- Snorkeling in the South Pacific has led to extensive reef preservation programs.

- Scuba diving with sharks in Fiji has made these ecologically important animals more valuable in the water than as sharkfin soup.

- Orangutan tours in Borneo have led to massive tracts of land being set aside as wildlife preserves, in turn protecting many other types of fauna and flora.

Tourism, and eco-tourism in particular, need to be embraced as effective tools for environmental preservation in the third world. However, they are only an effective 'first step.' Any biologist will tell you that water clarity can be a misleading metric for ecosystem health, and tourist-driven environmental preservation will naturally place a higher value for 'charismatic mega-fauna' such as sharks, orangutans, and crocodiles, ignoring the feebler bugs and mosses of the world.

However, in eastern Indonesia, where magnificent volcanic landscapes and beautiful beaches were marred by a layer of garbage, a couple sunburned tourists wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing.

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People Make the Place

Back in Indonesia, we noticed a slight knocking sound coming from the rudder whenerver we rolled in swell. After diving on it, we found out that a rudder bracket had worn itself loose and required a haulout and new bushing. This wasn't an urgent problem, but it was something we would need to fix before our next bluewater crossing. I began looking at haulout options and considered facilities in Bali, Java, Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand.

This wasn't complicated work, but we would need a machine shop nearby (and price was an obvious factor). The yards in Bali and Java didn't have sufficient facilities, yards in Singapore and Thailand were far too expensive, and some of the Malaysian yards had disreputable operators. I did hear about a new marina near Pangkor called 'Marina Island.' They had the ability to haul us out of the water, but were new so I was uncertain of their capabilities.

Our experience there, however, was more than positive. James, the marina manager (pictured on the right, above), went out of his way at every possibly moment to make sure that everything was going smoothly. On his trips in and out of town, he routinely purchased little gifts for all the sailors at the marina (either local fruit or local pastries such as the ethnic Chinese 'Grandfather's Bread' pictured above). Not only was James always reachable by phone, his staff would stop by several times a day and check to see if there was anything we needed.

The account manager, Loi, took us into town several times to swing by an ATM, and since leaving, he's twittered us many tips on places to go and see in Penang. One of the property managers, Ali, was exceptionally friendly and went out of his way to help sailors, even though his job was unrelated to the operations of the marina.

There was a local British ex-pat retiree named Roger who kept a boat at the marina. He was a loquacious, friendly, and genuine person who made it his job to chat with all the sailors that came in and out of the marina. He gave us rides to town, filled us in on the 'down-low' of the area, and entertained us with his quips.

James set me up with the manager of a local machine shop (they call them 'foundries' in Malaysia) who did a very professional job on our rudder bushing, and even custom fit a new propeller for us for an excellent price. In the end, the work we had done on the boat could have conceivably been done at anywhere, but James, Loi, Ali, and all the staff at Marina Island were what made our visit there such a positive experience.

We were ready to untie our lines and leave once all our work was done, but we elected to stay another two days and spend Thanksgiving with our new friends. On the surface, it was just another marina, but at it's core, it was the people there that made it so much more.

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