Sunday, April 11, 2010

The Cockpit Sessions: Volume One

With a little bit of spare time during our last crossing, we decided to record a couple of the songs that we play. We've chopped them up into four segments. Below is Volume One.

We call these, The Cockpit Sessions.


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Friday, April 9, 2010

Galapagean Scuba Trip

Yesterday, Alan and I went on a dive trip to Kicker Rock - a volcanic mass jutting out of the sea bottom several miles north of Wreck Bay. I had completed my open water scuba certification during my undergraduate days, but had never found myself with the opportunities to do any real diving. I suppose there's plenty of exquisite diving in the Bahamas, but for some reason, finding a shop and signing up for a trip never entered my mind.

What makes diving in the Galapagos different is the sharks. The deep water, sheer drop offs, and proximity to major ocean currents brings some incredible ocean species.

Back in Miami, we made friends with a diving enthusiast at the Coconut Grove Sailing Club. Robert 'Commanding Officer' Bondy told stories of his many trips to the Galapagos Islands to dive with sharks. The concept sounded like a reckless adrenaline rush at the time.

However, here on the island, diving to see sharks is one of the big things to do. It's not pitched as a thrill-seeking adventure, but rather as another opportunity to see exotic creatures. In truth, that's exactly what it was and it was certainly worth the trip.

We were picked up from our boat in the anchorage and taken out to Kicker Rock in the morning. Along the way we cut near shore and got to see some of the frigate birds performing their mating rituals (the males inflate a giant red pouch under their necks). We did a check dive next to a sea lion nesting colony and once at Kicker Rock we did two dives, both to about 80 feet. The first was a drift dive through a channel in the rock. The second was a wall dive around the northern tip.

EYE of the World doesn't have an underwater camera so we don't have any photos, but here's a list of the animals we saw:

Galapagos Sharks (~3 ft long)
Black Tip Sharks (~5 ft long)
White Tip Shark (~6 ft long)
Hammerhead Shark (~11 ft long)
Eagle Ray
Octopus
Moray Eel
Sea Lions

Not to mention the countless fish.
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Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Passage Notes ... or ... Too Many Mangoes, Not Enough Time

The area in which we spent most of our time in the panamanian pacific coast was part of the old, US administered, canal zone. Managed by the US Military, the Panama Canal was primarily a strategic asset for the United States. In the 1970's, the US signed two treaties that began the transfer of the canal, its operations, and its assets to Panama. That transfer was officially completed in 1999.

Most of the canal zone infrastructure remains today as it was in the 1970's. Uncharacteristic (for Panama) suburban neighborhoods, tree-lined boulevards, and administrative buildings carry a distinctly American flavor.

I went for a run (a new Cruiser's Running Guide post is forthcoming) through some of these empty neighborhoods. Duplexes and driveways on meandering streets felt no different than my neighborhood back home. However, instead of oak trees lining the roads, these streets were shrouded by grand mango trees.

Ripe yellow mangos lay strewn across the ground, while great bunches of green mangos hung within arms reach. I picked three green mangos for an experiment. This was three days before our departure.

Within two days, the green mangos had begun to soften and turn yellow. Cutting them open revealed that they were ripe and delicious.

The night before our departure, the three of us hopped aboard our folding bike and scooters and took a trip up to the mango trees. Jumping, standing on each other's shoulders, and hopping on garbage barrels, we collected over 125 mangos.

By the time we sailed our first 200 miles, the mangos began to ripen. We ate them raw (5 at a time), tried to make mango juice (not very effective), and even enjoyed them baked with onions and peppers over our fish steaks.

The fish is another story, but what really made this passage different from all the rest for me, was that we had an endless supply of mangos and fish - neither of which cost us a penny!
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