Creature Tourism

Want to go see orangutans in the wild? You won't have to sail around the world to do it (although you will have to travel halfway around the world). We've met many tourists from all over that have taken a grand trek to interact with the great apes of Southeast Asia. Here's how:

1) Get Here. Get to Kumai, Borneo. We sailed here, but there is an airport in a nearby town with regular flights to Jakarta (which has regular flights to anywhere else in the world).

2) Hire a Guide. Once in Kumai, arrange a boat tour with one of many operators. We've heard that some contract with travel agents abroad, so that it's possible to pre-book, but certainly not necessary (we booked a whole day speedboat trip at 4:00 PM the prior day). The guides are important. Aside from introducing you to the wild orangutans, they also have a much more important job: orangutan wrestler. Sometimes orangutans get aggressive, and without cages or barriers, there's little stopping one from attacking you. We witnessed several guides get physically involved when orangutans got grabby. Thankfully our guide explained how to prevent an orangutan from having interest in you (don't carry any food, bags, or have anything in your pockets). If an orangutan did grab you, submit (just as we did with Siswi as she reached out to hold our hands).

3) Decide What to See. There are many options for visiting the Tanjung Puting Reserve. We took a one day speed boat trip which included 1.5 hour trip to one camp to see a 9:00 AM feeding, then another 20 minute ride up to Camp Leakey. We were provided lunch and snacks, two boats and drivers, and an English speaking Guide. Another option is to take a slow river boat and spend from 2-6 days in the jungle. Each day you would visit camps, hike, and interact with orangutans. Each night you sleep onboard the houseboat, as a full crew cooks you meals and takes care of you.

4) Hang Out! It was wild (literally) to be within swinging distance of an orangutan. Each has a distinctly unique character, and watching them interact with humans and each other is something you can never get in a zoo.

If you're young and are more than just passively interested in orangutans, think about studying them professionally as a scientist. With hard work and good grades, there are ways to get your schooling and research paid for!

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Crossing Notes: Bali to Borneo

Before every crossing, we ritualistically clean, pack, wait for a weather window, settle into our watch schedule, and sail. Our most recent crossing was no different. We delayed our departure by a day to wait for favorable conditions (a healthy 5 day window with high pressure and 5-10 kt winds out of the southeast) and left before sunrise on Sunday morning.

Unfortunately, soon after we lost sight of the island of Bali, we found ourselves on 'Lake Indonesia.' Our forecasted winds were nowhere to be found. Hundreds of miles from land in all directions, and there wasn't a wave, swell, or even ripple to be seen. The Java Sea was a sheet of glass, and we crossed almost all of it with our engine running.

One afternoon, we took a swim break. We stopped the engine, came to a stop, and jumped in (with someone on the boat at all times). It was very refreshing.

After another day of no wind, we decided to swim again. As Alan, Halley, Amanda, and I jumped in the water, Matt stayed on the boat. He went down below, but little did the rest of the crew know that he went to use the head (our toilet).

We have a pump that flushes the head holding tank into the water outside the boat (called the macerator). Hearing it turn on while in the water next to the boat is rather unpleasant.

As those in the water were all screaming 'Matt no!!' someone noticed two sea snakes swimming nearby, which made the mad dash for the ladder even madder. On top of that, the first person out saw a shark while there were still people in the water.

The shark turned out to be a remora and although sea snakes are poisonous, their mouths are tiny and they're just curious, so it was ok. Matt now knows not to macerate when people are swimming, and he was quick to point out that he did, in fact, save our lives.

With less than 100 miles to go in a crossing, we usually get antsy and excited to step on shore the next day. On this crossing, with 100 miles to go, little did we know that we wouldn't touch dry land for another three days.

Our windless 'Lake Indonesia' suddenly turned into the land of lightning squalls. Each afternoon, we would watch the tops of puffy cumulus clouds soar upwards and form the definitive anvil tops of cumulo-nimbus clouds. The bottoms of these clouds became dark, bands of rain developed, wind began to blow, and by nightfall, the lightning would begin. Sometimes the tops of the clouds would glow bright orange; other times impressive bolts would streak down to the water.

But all of them were silent; without any thunder.

We carefully watched each cloud and successfully (yet anxiously) plotted courses of avoidance. The lightning would continue until 1:00 AM, and then pick up again at 4:00 AM until sunrise.

On our final afternoon, the wind filled in with coming squalls, but being within 40 miles of our anchorage, we pressed on and thankfully were able to navigate the river at night and set our anchor at a reasonable hour.

We are all relieved to be in Kumai. However, our most recent crossing is a bold reminder of the old saying: "Calm seas do not make a skilled sailor."

In a few days we'll have to leave again. There's a weather window a week away that should be free of lightning squalls; however, another old saying comes to mind: "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are for."

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Quit Monkeying Around!

On our trip to the Monkey Forest in Ubud, a Monkey stole my water bottle.

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