Farewell to the Atlantic Ocean

(... and Caribbean Sea)

We haven't parted ways with it yet, but as we float in Cristobal Harbor, our tenure with the Atlantic has certainly reached its denouement. I grew up swimming on its shores, from South Carolina to Delware, and have obviously sailed a fair bit of it as well.

During our trip from Virginia to Panama, we never came at odds with the Atlantic. Sure we had some swells here and there, but all in all, it was easy sailing. Of course, we always kept an eye out for any misgivings. Well aware of its potential, we were always ready to dart out of its way should it get moody.

And dart we did. We spent Virginia and North Carolina hidden in the Intracoastal Waterway. We waited in Florida for a weather window (and again in Georgetown, and yet again in South Caicos).

But when we went offshore, our days were truly pleasant. From our screaming 8 kt broad reach into Provo, to our lake-like crossing to Puerto Plata, we had the kinds of conditions that sailors wait all summer for.

Our trip across the Caribbean to Cartegena was nerve racking at times, and unpleasant at others, but it was fine. No need to be greedy.

Our most recent leg was a 16 hour overnight hop from Porvenir to Colon. A 15 kt offshore wind preceded by three days of calm gave us the opportunity to sail the WTP like the classic dinghy she always wanted to be. Sporting full sails most of the way, the WTP locked into a 15 degree heel with hardly any pitching or rolling worth mentioning.

We had to motor our final stretch into the Cristobal breakwater the next morning, but the prior night's sail seemed to be the Atlantic's fond farewell. And we'd like to thank it for serving as a most hospitable host. We had such a nice time, that we'll probably be back. In fact, I know we will.

See you in Cape Town/Gibralter.

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Do They Wear Their Colonial Garb At Home?

I once had the distinct pleasure of spending four years in Virginia's Colonial Capitol: Williamsburg. The city actually was, at one time, the Capitol of the Colony of Virginia, but I'm speaking in the present tense. Williamsburg is the Capitol of all things Colonial (much like New Orleans could be called the Capitol of Mardi Gras).

For those of you who haven't had the pleasure, a visit to Williamsburg is an immersion in another world. You can watch barrels and wagon wheels being made, learn how the British regiment marched in formation, and even get your picture taken in the city stocks. While wandering the streets (keeping an eye out for authentic horse droppings) you can mingle with men, women, and children dressed in colonial garb (stockings, britches, tri corner hats, and belt buckles on shoes). You'll be surrounded by other sneaker-and-shorts wearing time travelers like yourself, but pretending they don't exist gives the adventure even more presence.

Of course, Williamsburg is a historical recreation - almost a theme park of sorts (complete with concessions). The 'colonials' you meet are mere reenactors, who at the end of the day, go home and watch American Idol like the rest of us. If you ever go for a jog along Duke of Gloucester street early in the morning, you'll see a battalion of workers armed with leaf blowers, brooms, hedge clippers, and white pickup trucks that say 'Operations' on the side. This unit is replaced by the tri-corner hat brigade before the first tourists saunter in.

Oddly, that's the best I can describe the San Blas islands. I feel like we've entered another world. We're surrounded by picturesque islands covered in palm trees. Outlying reefs are awash with shipwrecks (both sailboats and freighters). And many of the islands are home to small straw huts.

The Kuna Indians live on these islands and on a porton of the Panamanian coast. The women cook fish in giant kettles while the men fish in traditional fashion from authentic wooden dugout canoes. Their lifestyle looks stolen from the pages of a 1970's era National Geographic. There are plenty of other cruisers about (one entered the anchorage yesterday blaring a song by Lady Gaga), but ignoring them immerses you fully.

Perhaps my time in Williamsburg left me jaded, but I'm half expecting to see a Kuna go around a palm tree, past an OSHA poster, and clock out next to a water cooler. On his way home he'll stop by Boston Market to pick up some dinner for the fam, and by 8:30 he'll be deep into a rerun of CSI:Miami.

The San Blas Islands are extraordinarily authentic (almost painfully so). I don't know how they do it, but the 'Operations' trucks must get going really early in the morning.

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Back So Soon?

The rumors are all true. I'll be back in the US in a few weeks! The primary purpose of my trip is to visit North Carolina and wrap up a few things with my graduate degree, but I'm excited to be able to visit the Hampton Roads area and home of EYE of the World. I'll be making visits to several of our participating classrooms and I also hope to see many of you at the Meet And Greet.

Things that I'm looking forward to during my visit:
- Cold weather
- Long pants
- Ice Cream
- Hot showers (with fresh water)
- A Marker 20 burger

and of course ...

- Seeing all of you on the 12th!

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I Don't Know, But I'm Gonna Tell You Anyways

Cartagena is a very beautiful and vibrant historical city. You can find aspects of Miami, Charleston, and Old San Juan all mixed together. However, there is one cultural quirk that I've never seen anywhere else: the strong aversion to saying 'I don't know.'

If you're looking to get somewhere, ask anyone, and they will happily (yet nonchalantly) point you in a specific direction. Some might even go through the trouble of writing an address on a sheet of paper. They will put in this effort, regardless of whether they know how to get you to your destination correctly.

On a recent trek to find the post office, I was the unknowing participant in what could even seem like an elaborately planned scavenger hunt. From one side of town to the other I went, at each location asking for directions. No two directions were the same, but none but the last actually contained the site of a post office.

In memory, I still have two pieces of paper with addresses on them in my pocket. One referred to a specific block, but to a house number and post office that did not exist. The other referred to a square, but there was little to accomplish at that location besides shop for shoes.

Maybe that was part of the scavenger hunt.

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A Challenge?

My mom is (understandably) a big fan and follower of www.eyeotw.org. She's also exceptionally skilled at finding good deals (and unashamedly proud of it). After reading our most recent EYElympics post about the papaya price haggle, she sent me the following e-mail:

"chyba ja bym wygrala kupno papaya"

[Translated:] "I think maybe I could have won the Papaya contest"

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The Luperon Cast of Characters

The night watches following departure of a particularly noteworthy location are full of reflection. I am manning the evening watch as we are about to leave Dominican waters and enter the exclusive economic zone of Haiti.

We are all overwhelmed by the positive experience we had in Luperon. Much like Coconut Grove, we were surrounded by caring, kindhearted, and thoroughly entertaining people. I was pondering writing the entire story of our stay, however it would most likely revert to sentimental rambling. Instead, let me tell you about the people we met.

Then imagining putting them all in one room together.

Dominican Port Authority:

Benjamin - We never quite figured out what his official role or title was, but he certainly kept himself busy hassling boaters. Upon our arrival, he quickly hopped on our boat and while displaying an annoyed authoritative tone, ordered us to raft up to the stern of two fishing boats on the commercial dock for an inspection (according to other boaters, no one else has ever received this kind of special attention). He still had a grudge against us during our departure formalities, even getting into an argument with the Commandante. Benjamin normally inspects boats about to leave before handing over the 'Despatcho,' however, the prospect of a romantic rowboat ride changed his plans. After one last attempt to extort a 'tip,' he handed over our paperwork at the dinghy dock and went on his way to hassle another American boat that had just arrived.

Commandante: An official from the Navy assigned on a rotating basis to oversee the harbor. This individual filled out our final departure forms, while at the same time keeping Benjamin at bay. He was very professional and amiable towards us.

Immigration Officer: Although Luperon is a popular cruising destination, the actual volume of individuals entering the country is low. This official often sat in a lawn chair at the end of the dock, often engrossed in mild conversation with anyone who wished to stop and chat. Very nice on a daily basis, he seemed a little annoyed when we caught him on a break in town and requested his services so that we could leave the country.

Cruisers:

Captain Bob Daly: A very personable bearded cruiser, Bob was enlisted by Benjamin to bring him to our boat when we first arrived. As Benjamin climbed onto our boat, Bob shot us a look of warning from his dinghy. We would later catch Bob all over town, always cheery and ready for a chat. He's very proud of the size of the holding tank on his boat.

Moe: The first cruiser to introduce himself to us, Moe stopped into Luperon for a one week stay seven months ago. An avid Curious George fan, Moe has a wry sense of humor and is proud of having only one friend on facebook. Moe and his ketch 'Wadda' will be departing soon for Cartagena and the Panama Canal. Hopefully we will cross paths again.

Shaggy's Mom (Lynn): Enlisted by her son to help run his restaurant in town (Shaggy's Barstool Sailor), Lynn enjoys meeting new cruisers in the harbor almost as much as she likes hanging out with them at Shaggy's. Her personality could best be described as a cross between opinionated and sassy.

Shaggy: Not satisfied simply cruising, Shaggy, opened and operates one of the most popular hangouts in town. The most casual atmosphere you could imagine, you feel like you're hanging out at a friend's house rather than a business establishment. He hosts an open mic night on Wednesdays, complete with a Dominican friend on bongos (whose skills can only be described as epic). I brought my guitar out and had the best 'gig' of my entire life there.

Bruce: A man who literally wrote the book on sailing the thorny path, Bruce Van Sant (with his wife Rosa), is a Luperon fixture. Much more self-assured and disorganized in person than in his book, striking up a conversation with him yesterday evening was one of the most entertaining things I've done in my life. I'm eagerly anticipating the release of his next book: a how-to guide for naïve young men looking for love.

Donnie: An American from Florida, Donnie's jean shorts and mullet scream 'I'm here to have a good time.' The Dominican Republic has not disappointed him.

Dave: A karaoke and radio DJ in his prior life, Dave's penchant for entertaining is still strong inside of him. Besides being a true pleasure to play along with at open mic night, Dave runs a heck of a karaoke show on Friday nights.

Pennywhistle Canvas: Miriam cruised and then settled in Luperon several years ago. She operates a canvas/chart business in town. She helped us get set up with charts for our next legs, and her proper english accent is delightful. Trevor is planning on framing his picture with her.

Al: Having grown up in Gloucester, Virginia, Al's first job was at Crown Pointe Marina (then called Cook's Landing). Small world!! During the regular Sunday afternoon jam session at the Luperon Yacht Club, Al joined us on banjo, mandolin, guitar, and harmonica. He even met up with Alan the next day to give him some banjo tutelage. We were thrilled to hear his pitch-perfect guinea-talk.

Jeffrey and Lucy: This pair needs special mention. We first met them at the jam session at the yacht club. Lucy plays flute spectacularly and can throw a beautiful riff on top of almost anything. Jeff plays guitar and, having grown up in London as a self-admitted 'mod,' you can see a certain glimmer in his eye when he talks about The Who, The Rolling Stones, and Led Zeppelin. The pair met in Luperon, and two people couldn't complement each other as well as they do. Whether around town, at open mic night, or at karaoke, it is hard to describe how pleasant their company is.

Jeffrey had requested that we contact him on the radio before leaving town. After spending our last pesos, taking care of clearance formalities, and prepping the boat, we did just that. What followed was very surreal. He announced our departure to the entire harbor, wished us well, and then broadcast a beautiful sea shanty over the radio. Upon its completion, there was a chorus of well wishes from other cruisers. We were only in Luperon for a week, however we felt nothing but sincere love from everyone we met.

Once more, the hardest part of sailing around the world is saying goodbye.

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